Warm half-and-half almost to a simmer. Turn off the heat and add chamomile, if using.

Steep, covered, for 10 minutes, then strain. Sweeten with condensed milk to taste.

Spread 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons of butter on one side of each slice of bread. (It's okay. This is dessert.)

Toast, bake, or broil the buttered bread on both sides (starting buttered side up) until the edges are lightly browned.

Dip the buttered side of each piece of toast in sugar, then sprinkle on a bit more to coat evenly.

Broil the toast again, sugared side up, just till well-browned and crackly. Don't walk away. Alternately, torch the sugared toast on a metal rack set over a pan. Keep the torch nozzle 2 to 3 inches from the toast, and move it across the surface of the bread. Tip your pan to coax melted sugar toward unmelted sugar. Avoid torching the edges, because unsugared bread can ignite.

Serve brûléed toast in a hefty puddle of sweet milk.